Bernie Van Der Linde
Andros, Greece, is absolutely worth visiting! It is the second largest, greenest, northernmost island of the Cycladic Islands cluster. And the best part? You can do everything on a 3-day trip as we did.
This Cycladic Island was once the cornerstone of Greece’s shipping dynasties and thus boasts a rich cultural heritage. The island is known for unspoiled and sheltered beaches with crystal clear turquoise waters and neoclassical mansions framed by Cypress trees. Arni is the lush-green forested, mountainous area of the island. In keeping with the beauty of typical Greek islands, the roads are lined with bright pink Oleander and canopies of Bougainville.
Andros is unique in that the air also smells of citrus groves, thyme, and freshly baked pastries. Moreover, its distinct, storied past is evident in the many archaeological sites, medieval castles, ruins, and quintessential villages.
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Bernie Van Der Linde
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What makes Andros, Greece worth visiting
Andros is home to several Byzantine churches (Taxiarches in Messaria, Melida, Ypsilou, Kismis Theotokou in Mesathouri and Agios Nikolaos in Korthi) and many impressive monasteries (Zoodochos Pigis in Batsi is the largest).
More than a third of Andros is a nature reserve and, therefore, a welcoming fortress for migrating birds. There are several natural wonders like Phythara and Gerolimni, Trypes and Foros Aladinou caves, and natural springs at Menites and Sariza. In addition, this island is a hiker’s paradise with more than 300km of marked hiking trails certified by the European Ramblers Association.
Reasons to visit Andros instead of the more popular islands
Andros is nothing like the other touristy, over-the-top-expensive Cycladic islands. Although it has fewer tourist attractions and limited tourism infrastructure, it has unprecedented natural scenery and history.
My first impression was that it reminded me of the Scottish Highland with its arched stone bridges and medieval watchtowers. The only thing missing is the Lochness Monster in the turquoise Aegean Sea.
Before I give you many reasons why you must visit Andros, let me start by explaining what and where the Cycladic Islands are.
What and where are the Cyclades islands?
You can see from the map that Andros lies to the east of the other Cycladic Islands.
The Cyclades is a group of islands southeast of the mainland in the Aegean Sea. It consists of about 220 islands, of which the most popular islands are Santorini, Mykonos, Milos, Syros, Tinos, Andros Naxos, Paros, Serifos, Ios, and Kythnos. The islands form a skewed circle around Delos (an unpopulated island) and thus received the title Cyclades, which means ‘encircling islands’. These islands are within proximity of Athens and easily accessible by ferry or aeroplane (not all islands have airports).
The Cyclades islands highlight traditional Cycladic architecture, which refers to whitewashed houses, blue dome churches (in various shapes and tones of blue), colourful wooden window frames, shutters and doors. The quintessential towns have narrow cobblestone alleyways, which are mostly tiled with slate and outlined with white paint to accentuate the pathways.
Interestingly, we learned that most of the headquarters or capitals of Cycladic islands are named ‘Chora’. For example, you will find a town called Chora (or Hora) in Santorini, Andros, Mykonos, etc.
What makes Andros unique?
Andros has low foreign tourism and is known as the playground of affluent mainland Athenians. This could be a consequence of the island not having an airport and no cruise liners visiting this port. Restaurants offer wholesome Greek food (for realistic prices) with inviting smiles.
Visitors are valued and not treated as irritants, which we often experience on very touristy islands like Mykonos and Santorini. I recall a shop owner shouting something angrily in Greek to my husband and me in Mykonos because we picked up a handbag on display that my husband wanted to buy for me. Needless to say, we rushed out of the shop in humiliation. We noticed this kind of behaviour often in the town of Mykonos. This is just another reason why I am not very fond of Mykonos.
We enjoyed staying in the heart of Andros and getting a feel for the local culture, which is often missing in more well-known Greek islands.
Where are the best places to stay in Andros?
Chora is spectacular at night, as the locals gather with friends and family for dinner in the centre of town.
There is a wide variety of intimate accommodation types ranging from charming hotels, like Paradise Art Hotel, to intimate boutique hotels and Air B&B rentals like Villa Thimari (where we stayed) and even neoclassical villas in Chora.
What are the beaches like in Andros?
We found many secluded beaches where we had the entire beach to ourselves. Secluded beaches like Vitali and Tis Grias to Pidima are reached by long and winding gravel roads. A 4X4 is necessary on a few roads.
Four must-visit villages in Andros
The four must-visit villages in Andros in Batsi, Chora, Gavrio and Korthi.
1. Batsi
Batsi is about 8.6km from Gavrio port. It is the most ‘touristy’ coastal town on the island, and it has a picturesque small harbour. Yet, it still has an authentic Greek vibe. The croissant-shaped waterfront is lined with restaurants, beach bars, souvenir shops and quaint boutiques. Here you can enjoy a bit more vibey yet relaxing nightlife.
2. Chora
Chora is the capital of Andros. The centre is a car-free zone, enabling visitors to stroll the marble-paved alleyways and enjoy ‘Al Fresco’ dinners. The world-renowned Archeological Museum and the Goulandris Museum of Contemporary Art (which exhibits the work of world-famous artists like Picasso, Matisse, Chagall, and many more) are located in the centre of town. Kairi Square is the place to become spellbound by the wonderful Greek hospitality.
The best time to stroll Chora is from about 6 p.m. onwards when the town is alive. Kairi Square offers exceptional photo opportunities.
As you walk down the main pedestrian zone (Georgiou Embirikou Street) towards the sea (near Kairi Square), you must walk through an archway to enter the old town of Chora. Here, you find beautiful, well-maintained old buildings and pretty churches (look out for Agios Georgios) that testify to the island’s wealth. At the end of the old town, you will come across the bronze statue of the Unknown Sailor and a small bridge that leads to the ruins of a Venetian castle. Interestingly, the spot where the statue stands today was once the home of the Embirikos family, which was destroyed in 1943 during the Second World War. The family then donated the entire area to the Municipality of Andros, which turned it into a square.
At the tip of the peninsula is a beautiful arch bridge, the Kamara, which connects Riva Square with the Venetian Castle perched on a barren islet.
3. Gavrio
Gavrio is a port town on the west coast of Andros and the only ferry port. This port village has several bakeries selling Greek sweets and delicacies, a few car rental companies, and some general shops. The Gavrio lighthouse is located on the edge of the port.
4. Korthi
To the southeast of Chora lies the small, rather unspectacular town of Korthi with its tranquil harbour. The area around Korthi is particularly interesting, especially for hikers. The small mountain villages in the area are among the most beautiful on the island. We were particularly impressed by the many terraces where barley, onions, figs and wheat used to be grown. Many beautiful beaches in the area invite you to relax and swim.
Must-visit landmarks in Andros, Greece
- The Statue of the Unkown Sailor in Riva square in Chora. The statue pays tribute to Andros’s Naval history. The statue aims to honour all the sailors who lost their lives at sea.
- The cathedral of Agios Georgis has two bell towers and Agia Varara (just before reaching Riva Square) in the old town of Chora.
- The tiny church of Agia Thalassini, just off the docks, is accessible by a short staircase. From here, you will have dramatic views and great photo opportunities.
- The Bridge of Love in Episkopio. You will need to park your car in the centre of town and walk a short route. There are markings along the route to the bridge. The bridge became immensely popular since the screening of the feature film ‘Little England’.
- Menites Springs. Here, you can enjoy the crystal-clear waters that come out of the marble lion’s mouth.
- Tourlitis Lighthouse, Chora. This is the only lighthouse in Europe built on a rock in the sea.
- Panagia Thalassini, Chora. The best time to visit this beautiful small church is just before sunset.
- Panagia Theoskepati, Chora, is known as the protector of the island.
- Ancient springs like Dionysus
- We were looking forward to visiting the Olive Museum in Pitrofos. Unfortunately, we and another group of tourists were greeted by a very rude person at the entrance, informing us that the museum was closed and only open by appointment.
Best beaches in Andros
- Tis Grias to Pidima Beach, this is the beach you often see on postcards of Andros. It has a distinctive tall rock formation in the ocean. A narrow gravel road leads to the cliffs directly above the beach. You may notice a few cars parked on the side of the road. You do not need to be very fit to hike the short route. It will take you about 10 minutes to descend to the beach, and even hiking back to the top is not difficult at all.
- There is a small beach, so it is better to go during the week. Because we visited on a Sunday, the beach was quite packed. There is almost no shade and no facilities, so remember to bring a beach umbrella, some beach chairs, drinks, and snacks.
- Agio Petros beach is also stunning. It has a golden, soft sandy beach and a few good beach clubs and open beaches.
- Vitali Beach is a picturesque, secluded beach near Villa Thimari on the northeast coast of Andros. This beach is by far our number one choice on Andros. There is a great beach bar with guest facilities. You must try ‘Grandpa’s beach basket’. This beach is just a little over half an hour from Gavrio and easily accessible by car. It is impressive to see how the landscape suddenly transforms from the rather barren Gavrio into lush greenery. Bright pink Oleander plants are lined up on both sides of the road leading to the beach.
- At Vitali Beach, there is a fantastic restaurant that also rents
- Follow the signs that look like (show sign board in photos)
Agios Kyprianos
- Agios Kyprianos: This small, secluded beach is protected by caves on the left side (facing the water). The water is warm, calm and inviting.
- Ag. Aikaterini Beach, on the east side of the island, is also very nice. There is a lovely restaurant opposite the beach where we enjoyed lunch.
- Kipri Beach is ideal for water sports lovers. Here, you can rent jet skis. Filio Beach house has a flat, long beach with a beach bar across the road. They charge 15 euros for a set of sunbeds.
- On either side of Chora is Nimorio and Paraporti beaches. Because these beaches are on the north, they are exposed to the ‘Meltemi’ wind.
Where to stay in Andros, Greece
Agios Petros
This countryside village is perched on a small hill above Gavrio. We stay at the fabulous Villa Thimari, a beautifully restored original farmhouse. Your host, Sandra, will delight you with gastronomic dishes, her wealth of knowledge and indescribable charm. Don’t miss our feature article about our fantastic stay at Villa Thimari.
Where to eat in Andros, Greece
You really have to look far to find a place that doesn’t offer great food.
- We had our most memorable meal in Chora at Ta Skalakia, which is set along the stairs in a side walkway just off the main walkway. The location looks like something ripped out of the pages of a travel magazine. You need to make a booking at least a day in advance (+30 2282 022822)This family-owned and run taverna serves traditional Greek dishes and small plates (meze) with unprecedented Greek flair and hospitality.
- Our restaurant tip for Korthi is the restaurant Vintsi Café and Bar, which offers a marvellous view over the bay of Korthi. The charming restaurant overlooks a lovely small swimming bay.
- Nonas in Chora for seafood. Bookings are essential a few days in advance.
Know this before booking a trip to Andros, Greece?
- The island does not have many ferry connections, which could make ferry-hopping challenging.
- Their public transport system is almost nonexistent. Visitors prefer renting a car to tour the island.
- Between three and six o’clock is ‘siesta time’. Most of the shops and restaurants close during this time. Although one can understand the need to avoid the hottest time of the day, this can be an inconvenience for day-drippers.
- Andros does experience Meltemi winds during the warmer summer months. We had a few days with unpleasant wind.
- On several underdeveloped islands like Andros, you may not flush toilet paper because the sewerage system is not capable of handling it. You will always notice a small waste bin next to the toilet for the used paper.
- Andros has three ports: one is the ferry port in Gavrio, the other two are in Batsi and Chora, which are more for private boats, and Chora is for fishing vessels.
- You need water shoes to walk on the pebble beaches.
When is the best time to visit Andros, Greece
Summer is a good time for any of the Cycladic islands. The high season is from July to the end of August. We always recommend going in shoulder seasons for the best prices, which is either June or September.
Winter is not a good time as many hotels and restaurants are closed.
Best ways to travel to Andros, Greece
Good to know about ferry-hopping to Andros
 There are no baggage check-in procedures and no limit to the amount of baggage that you can take on board. Most ferry companies are pet-friendly.
Renting a car on Andros
Conclusion
Andros is the most underrated island in the Cyclades. But that may be the reason it is such a hidden gem. We can summarise Andros in four words: authentic, charming, and natural beauty. This island cannot be compared to any of the other Cycladic islands because of its beautiful, secluded beaches, rich history, archaeological significance, and exciting hiking trails. On a good day, you may have some of the best beaches for yourself.
A piece of advice: once you visit this magical island, keep it to yourself; we do not want the crowds and cruise liners to discover it.
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3 Comments
Andros sounds wonderful. No cruise ships and many Greeks visiting sounds like a perfect combination.
I only had a couple of days on Andros and really enjoyed it. I really enjoyed hopping around the Greek Islands.
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