Bernie Van Der Linde
When I first mentioned the idea of going to Japan to Petra, she burst out laughing and thought I was joking around with her. After a few minutes, she realised that I was very serious and knowing me, once I put my mind to something, it would be difficult for her to convince me otherwise.
Luckily, my timing was perfect; it just so happened that my oldest son, Kelvin, was racing in August of 2019 in the Suzuka 10-hour at Suzuka International Racecourse in Mie Prefecture in Japan (which I must add they won on the weekend). This is where our adventurous (read-eventful) trip to Japan starts. It was one of those trips with many highs and some upsetting lows (that we cannot stop laughing about today). We will share some of these Japan videos on our Instagram stories, but let me not get ahead of the story.
How to avoid letting uncontrollable events ruin your trip to Japan?
The week before we were due to leave on our trip to Japan via Hong Kong, travel chaos broke out in Hong Kong as the protests of the last few months escalated, many flights got cancelled, and major roads were blocked. I was due to fly from Johannesburg to Hong Kong on Cathy Pacific on the 14th of August (2019) and meet Petra there, and together, we would fly to Japan after a two-day tour of the city. The day before we were due to fly to Hong Kong, our flights got cancelled, and consequently, we cancelled our hotel, which refused to refund us (booked through a well-known booking site).
I got upgraded to first class on an Emirates flight to Japan
Because we don’t let anything get in the way of a planned trip, we immediately searched for new flights, and I found only a business class ticket in Emirates via Dubai to Japan. Petra luckily found a flight on FinAir via Helsinki, and she would land a few hours before me. This is where it gets exciting as I was about to board my flight from Dubai to Narita International Airport (Tokyo), Japan, when the air hostess softly asked for my boarding pass and said she needed to exchange it for another one. My immediate reaction was, what did I do wrong? Not wanting to make a scene, I continued walking down the aisle with the new ticket until my eyes noticed the new boarding class FIRST. I wanted to shout out to everyone, “I got upgraded”! This was the best experience of my life. First class in Emirates is something you don’t want to read about but need to be experienced. Needless to say, I didn’t sleep much on this 10hr 40 min flight as I wanted to enjoy the moment and experience all the luxury and spoils on this flight. This experience deserves an article of its own.
To cut a very long story short, as Petra landed about 10 hours earlier than I did, she had to figure out the JR Narita Express on her own, travel to our hotel, and return to the airport to come and meet me (for our traditional airport selfie). That’s why Petra deserves an award for the best travel companion or, as we say, travel buddy!
A 10-day trip to Japan: A custom-designed itinerary
We planned a 10-day trip to Japan, starting in Tokyo (3 nights). From there, we went by high-speed train to Kyoto (2 nights), where we hired a car and drove to Nara (2 nights). We attended the 10-hour Intercontinental GT race in Suzuka (2 nights) and ended our trip in Osaka.
Three days in Tokyo, Japan
In Tokyo, we stayed at Hotel Villa-Fontaine Grand Tokyo-Shiondome (56km from the airport) because it is conveniently close to Shiondome Subway Station (metro and train 100m) and within a 10-minute’ walk (400m) of the JR Shimbashi Train Station. Although this is a commercial district, we found it close to the areas and stations we wanted to discover.
Things to do in Central Tokyo
Tsukiji Fish Market, Tokyo, Japan
From our hotel, we took a leisurely walk (20 minutes) to the 80-year-old Tsukiji Fish and Produce market to admire the over 400 stalls selling kitchen utensils, fish, and shellfish, many of which we have never seen before and sample some Japanese favourites like fresh sushi.
The biggest market in Japan is over several blocks of crowded, narrow lanes. It is argued to be the best place to learn more about Japanese cuisine and culture at the many authentic restaurants. The market is famous among tourists, locals, and wholesalers. To find out about the best foods to try at the fish market, read Japan Wonder travel blog’s article “15 Best foods to try at Tsukiji Fish Market”
How to get to Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo, Japan?
Take the Toen Oedo Line and get off at Tsukiji Shijo Station, walk out at exit A1; the market is about a minute’s walk from the exit OR
Take the Hibiya Line and get off at Tsukiji Station; walk out at exit 1 or 2; the market is about a minute’s walk from the exit.
Imperial Palace, Tokyo, Japan
The imperial palace is the official residence of Japan’s imperial family. The palace grounds are not open to the public except for New Year’s and on the emperor’s birthday, the 23rd of February, when visitors can enter and wave to the Imperial Family as they appear from the balcony. We found this palace rather unimpressive, but it could have been because it was unbearing hot by the time we reached the place, and we didn’t have the energy to walk around and admire a fort-like building from the outside.
Things to do in Western Tokyo, Japan
Shibuya Crossing Tokyo, Japan
This iconic intersection, swarming with people, is located just outside Shibuya Station. It is featured in movies like The Fast and the Furious: Tokyo Drift and Lost in Translation. The busy intersection is characteristic of Tokyo and its people. Three massive television screens are mounted on the buildings facing the intersection, including tons of flashing advertising boards and lights (did I mention lights?). Besides the chaotic intersection, Shibuya is famous for fashion and trendspotting, and every foodie’s dream comes true. This is the ideal spot to learn about Japan’s Depachika (in-house food basement halls) culture. These food markets in department stores are known for selling everything from immaculately packed foods, ready-to-eat meals, and picture-perfect bento to packaged gifts.
PRO TIP: Take your time wandering the aisles and look for free food samples. Arrive at a Depachika about forty-five to half an hour before closing time, and be sure to receive significant discounts. Most ready-to-eat food items will then be discounted to clear.
Things to do in Southern Tokyo, Japan
Tokyo Tower Japan
When driving in Tokyo, it is impossible to miss the towering red and white stripes of Tokyo Tower. This 333-meter-high tower in the centre of Tokyo is the world’s tallest, self-supported steel structure (3 meters taller than its model, the Eiffel Tower). Until the construction of Skytree in 2012, it was the country’s tallest structure. Tokyo Tower has a dual purpose, first as a broadcasting tower and second as a tourist attraction with magnificent viewpoints over the city. A large elevator takes visitors up to the main deck at 150 meters; alternatively, one can use the 600-step staircase. The views are pretty good from there; there are some glass floors to stand on for a different angle view. A second elevator connects the main deck to the 250-meter-high top deck. Here, you get a bird’s eye view of Tokyo. At the tower’s entrance is a souvenir shop and a basic café. In the basement are shops, restaurants, and an e-sports entertainment complex.
What are the admission fees and opening hours of Tokyo Tower in Japan?
1200 yen (main deck) 7.60 Euro (2023)
3000 yen (both decks) 19.01 Euro (2023)
2800 yen if purchased in advance for both decks (17.74 Euro)
Opening hours: 9:00 to 22:30 (entry until 22:00)
How to get to Tokyo Tower in Japan?
The closest subway stations to Tokyo Tower are Onarimon Station on the Mita Subway Line, Akabanebashi Station on the Oedo Subway Line and Kamiyacho on the Hibiya Subway Line, which is all about a 5 to 10-minute walk from the tower. Alternatively, you can reach the tower in about a 15 to 20-minute walk from Hamamatsucho Station on the JR Yamanote Line or Daimon Station on the Asakusa or Oedo subway lines.
What to do in Northern Tokyo in Japan?
Skytree, Tokyo, Japan
Tokyo Skytree is a television broadcasting tower and famous landmark of Tokyo with a height of 634 meters. It has two observation decks, one at 350m and the other at 450m, the highest in Japan. Unfortunately, we didn’t go up this tower because our time was limited in Tokyo.
What are the admission fees and opening hours of Skytree, Tokyo?
You can purchase same-day tickets from the ticket counter on the 4th floor. On busy days (typically when the waiting time would exceed one hour), visitors will be assigned a 30-minute time slot during which they can enter. On very busy days, same-day tickets may sell out:
Reservations can be made on their wesbsite for a specific time slot on a specific date and at a discount of a few hundred yen.
First observatory: 2100 yen (weekdays) 13.30 Euros, 2300 yen (weekends/holidays) 14.57 Euros
Both observatories: 3100 yen (weekdays) 19.64 Euros, 3400 yen (weekends/holidays) 21.54 Euros
Opening hours: 10:00 to 20:00 (entry until 19:00)
Sensoji Temple, Japan
Sensoji, also known as Asakusa Kannon Temple, is the oldest temple in Asakusa; completed in 645. According to the legend, in the year 628, two brothers pulled up a statue of Kannon, the goddess of mercy, out of the river Sumida, and even though they returned it to the river, it kept returning. Consequently, the Sensoji Buddhist temple was built to honour the goddess. The most impressive part of this temple is the large red Kaminarimon Thunder Gate lantern, a landmark of Asakusa. This lantern weighs about 700kg. There is also a magnificent five-storied pagoda next to the temple.
A highlight for us was visiting Nakamise-dori Street, Japan’s oldest shopping street (about 250m long) (adjacent to the temple grounds). Here, you will find abundant souvenir shops and traditional Japanese snack shops.
What are the opening hours of Sensoji Temple, Japan?
Sensoji Temple is open daily and lit up every evening until 11:00.
Is it worth observing a Japanese tea ceremony in Tokyo, Japan?
You cannot say you have been to Japan without observing a traditional Tea Ceremony. The tea ceremony is fondly known as chanoyu, or sado, in Japanese, while the art and performance of preparing and presenting matcha powdered green tea is called otemae. Chakai is an informal gathering to appreciate the ritualised serving of tea, while the more formal occasion is a chaji. This customary ceremony is immersed in history. Our experience was very disappointing and overrated, the typical tourist trap. Don’t make the same mistake as we did! Although tea ceremonies are held across Japan, Kyoto and Uji are known as the best destinations to enjoy Japan’s tea culture. We also learned afterwards that there are varying degrees of formality and authenticity; some are held in traditional gardens, cultural centres or hotels. Don’t fall victim to cheap imitations. Click here to read more about the Japanese cultural tea ceremony procedure.
Where to eat the best Sushi in Tokyo, Japan?
We met a good friend who lives in Tokyo but is originally from Texas for dinner in Skytree Town, and she recommended Rokurinsha Tokyo Soramachi (one of the best Sushi restaurants).
Good to Know (Japan):
Don’t worry if you don’t understand Japanese; most restaurants display plastic replicas called ‘sampuru’, meaning samples of the type of food on offer in their windows. If you would like one of these food replicas as a souvenir, Kappabashi Street in Tokoyo has many of these shops.
Toyko to Kyoto Shinkansen train (bullet train, Japan)
How much is the bullet train from Tokyo to Kyoto, Japan?
We took the Nozomi bullet train to Kyoto, which took 2 hours and 15 minutes, leaving Tokyo station.
Currently, a reserved seat costs 113.73 euros per passenger one way. You can book your Shinkansen tickets from the link provided. They send your tickets to your hotel in Japan (what we did), your home country, or a post office in Tokyo, Osaka, or Kyoto. Make sure you are on time, and these trains are NEVER late!
PRO TIP: Mt. Fuji view on the way to Kyoto. In good weather, you can see Mt. Fuji from your window in the Shinkansen on your way to Kyoto. The best seat to see Mt. Fuji is window side seats on the right hand. The best time to see Mt. Fuji is approximately 44 minutes after departing Tokyo station. Therefore, try to book window seats on the right-hand side of the train.
Two days in Kyoto, Japan
Kyoto was beyond anything we could ever imagine, and we regret not allocating more time to explore Kyoto. Although Kyoto is known for Buddhist temples, Shinto shrines (the most famous one, Fushimi Inari Shrine), places and gardens, it is the perfect place to experience and learn about authentic Japanese culture, and what better way to experience it all than to rent a kimono (to Petra’s embarrassment). The most prominent landmarks not to be missed include Kyoto Imperial Palace, Kiomizu-dera, kinkaku-ji, Ginkaku-ji and Kyoto Tower.
We enjoyed walking through the charming streets of Gion and were lucky enough to spot a geisha, called ‘geiko’ in the Kyoto dialect, walking straight past us one evening.
There are fewer than 200 geishas in Kyoto, so their shows are often booked out far in advance.
Where to stay in Kyoto, Japan?
Our accommodation in Kyoto was the best during our entire stay in Japan. We stayed at Hotel Ethnography in the heart of Gion Shinmonzen. Our hosts spoke English well and went out of their way to make us feel welcome and meet our needs. They gave us helpful information on where to go, what to do and how to get there.
We have a hilarious video that we will share on our Instagram page about us trying to figure out how the air conditioner works (remember, everything is in Japanese writing) as it was somehow on a heating setting. The video shows me shouting at Petra because I am so hot and cannot breathe while she is taking a video of me (not helping the situation). Desperate, we opened the hotel room just to get cool air.
Where to rent a kimono in Kyoto, Japan?
We rented our kimonos in a nearby street of the Kiyomizu temple. We paid 4000 Yen each for our robes for the entire day. You can have your hair and makeup done at the rental companies. At first, Petra was horrified by the idea of us parading the street in ‘costumes’ as she referred to them, until we saw the streets of Kyoto swarming with Westerners and Japanese women dressed in kimonos or, instead, Jakutas (the summer version). There are rental companies all over town, although Shinkiyogoku Street is back-to-back with kimono and souvenir shops.
Our top 5 must-visit locations in Kyoto, Japan
We visited these top locations since we only had two days in Kyoto.
Yasaka Pagoda, Kyoto, Japan
This beautiful pagoda is next to Ninezaka and close to several attractions in the Higashiyama district. In this area, people buy colourful balls to make a wish or crawl under the colossal round rock to drive away bad luck.
Kiyomizu-dera Temple, Kyoto, Japan
Kiyomizo means ‘clear water’. The entire main hall is made from wood, and no single metal or nail is used to support the structure. Kiyomizu-Dera Temple is next to Yasak Shrine and only a 10-minute walk from the Gion district.
Kinkakuji Temple, Kyoto, Japan
This golden-covered structure is worth a visit. The public cannot access the golden pavilion’s interior, but there is a beautiful garden that you can stroll around with some beautiful water features. We took a bus to visit this temple. Click on the link to see how to access available transport to the temple. The temple is open all year round from 9:00 to 17:00.
The entrance for the Kinkakuji Temple is 3.17 euros.
Ninezaka or ‘Two-year hill’, Kyoto, Japan
Ninezaka is within easy walking distance of Gion, about 4 minutes (950m). This paved pedestrian road in Higashiyama has traditional buildings, antiques, and quaint coffee or tea shops. Petra and I have this fascination with Starbucks, and thus always look for unique ones on our trips. The Starbucks in Kyoto is the world’s first tatami-floored (soft wooden-like flooring with unique fragrance). You will find this Starbucks in Ninezaka, a famous street of the World heritage listed Kiyomizudera temple. Click here to read more about the special Starbucks
Shijo-dori street, Kyoto, Japan
This is a fantastic shopping street and foodies faradise. This street runs from East to West through the heart of Kyoto city. You will find anything from high-end fashion to restaurants and souvenir shops here. This street is clean, with many sidewalks perfect for those Instagram moments.
Where to eat in Kyoto, Japan?
A friend referred us to this husband-and-wife-run private restaurant in Gion, Kyoto. The restaurant can only serve ten people per evening. If you only follow one of our recommendations, this is it! You need to make a reservation.
Visit their Instagram page to view their cosy restaurant and some of their delicious meals.
Five interesting facts about Kyoto, Japan
- Kyoto means ‘capital city’
- Kyoto has a population of 1.5 million people, 2% are foreigners.
- There are 100 temples and 800 shrines in Kyoto
- There are 17 UNESCO World Heritage sites in Kyoto
- There are very few public toilets in Kyoto. Look out for convenience stores, train stations, and franchise stores like McDonald’s and Starbucks.
You can find really helpful information from the following website, as the author is a resident of Kyoto. Click here.
What is better, traditional Kyoto or modern Tokyo in Japan?
While Tokyo is Japan’s modern economic hub and capital, Kyoto oozes Japanese history, culture and tradition. You must experience both to appreciate Japanese efficiency, architecture, culture and traditions.
Two days in Nara, Japan
Is it easy to rent a car in Japan?
We rented a car in Kyoto and drove to Nara. Picking up our rental car was a nightmare as no one in the agency spoke English, and the documentation was in Japanese. Note to self: “Make sure you have a good translator app when travelling to a foreign country” (recommendations welcome in the comments).
Nara, or as we call it, Deer City, is less than 50 km (about an hour’s drive) from Kyoto. Besides Todaiji Temple and Nara Park, there is little to see and do in Nara. If you are in the area, it is worth visiting Nara.
Todaiji Temple, Nara, Japan
Here, we visited the impressive Todaiji Temple. Until recently, Todaiji’s main hall, the Daibutsuden ‘Big Buddha Hall’, held the record for the world’s largest wooden building. The building is impressive with its massive bronze seated Buddah statue of 15 meters tall. Many deer walk the temple’s ground as Nara Park is next to the temple.
Nara park, Japan
Nara Park is a large park in central Nara and next to Todaiji Temple. Nara is home to thousands of deer roaming freely. We saw deer crossing streets, walking around shops, and on hotel grounds; wherever you look, there are deer. The clever deer have learned to bow to visitors to beg for ‘shika senbei’ a biscuit treat sold for around 200 yen, 1.27 euro. The deer are notably tame but sometimes get aggressive if they realise you have biscuits in your hand and take too long to feed them. Our Instagram highlights show a funny reel of Petra being bitten by a deer because she took too long to feed them. We had a lot of fun interacting with the deer.
How to get to Nara Park, Japan?
Nara Park is a five-minute walk from Kintetsu Nara Station or about 20 minutes from JR Nara Station.
Where to stay in Nara, Japan?
We stayed at Nara Hotel but cannot recommend this hotel. Besides the hotel being overpriced, the staff were unfriendly and unhelpful to the point of being almost rude. The hotel’s atmosphere is unwelcoming, and the rooms are dusty. When we visited, the hotel was under renovation, which could have contributed to the dire state of the hotel.
Nara to Suzuka Circuit, Japan
We travelled by car from Nara to Suzuka circuit, about 99km (1 hour 30 minutes). Kelvin’s team won the 10-hour GT Intercontinental race, which made our trip beyond amazing.
Here we had the most drama with our accommodation. We stayed at Hotel Wellness Suzukaji where no one spoke English. We arrived an hour before check-in, and even though the hotel was half empty, reception refused to allow us to check in earlier. I read somewhere that they lock you in the room until the morning to make sure you don’t leave without paying your bill, and this led to a massive argument with reception as I was trying to explain to the man that he would ‘NOT’ lock us in the room. To cool off, Petra suggested we go for lunch just down the road in a ‘quint’ (read awful) little restaurant (see photo), which we afterwards realised was someone’s private home. Petra didn’t want to hurt the old man’s feelings and ate the ‘special’ meal he prepared for us.
One day in Osaka, Japan
Osaka is Japan’s second-largest metropolitan city after Tokyo. We spent the day shopping and having lunch in Osaka as we had enough shrines and temples. Osaka’s shopping combines high-end brand names and designer goods with discount shops. The city has two large shopping districts Umeda in the north and Namba in the south.
We flew back home from Osaka airport.
What are the most authentic experiences to do in Japan?
- Soak in an onsen
- Learn the art of a tea ceremony
- Rent a kimono and wander around in the streets
- Watch a geisha dance show
- Watch a sumo wrestler in action
- Ride a Shinkansen (bullet rain)
- Brave the Shibuya crossing
- Order ramen from a vending machine
- Drink sake
- Eat sushi
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Stroll a Japanese garden
- Enjoy Kakigori - Shaved ice
- Visit a Japanese garden and admire the beatiful koi fish
Visit this website for more authentic experiences in Kyoto. Click here
Things to know about Japan before you go
- Kakigōri is a dessert made from shaved ice and flavored with syrup and even condensed milk.
- Accommodation is super expensive for what you get
- Few (we met two) people speak English
- Most hotels and restaurants have high-tech toilets, sometimes called ‘smart or super toilets’. The toilets are built with smart technology; you can flush, spray and dry with a button.
- ‘Onsen’ is the Japanese word for hot springs, while ‘sento’ is a public bath. An onsen has multiple beneficial minerals and meets the state’s strict requirements for hot springs. Interestingly, visible tattoos are not allowed in onsens and sentos because they are associated with Yakuza (a Japanese gangster). However, there are some tattoo-friendly around Japan.
Conclusion
Japan is great for a cultural experience, fun (smart toilets, deer using pedestrian crossings, people that don’t understand you), and beautiful (incredible scenery and architecture). Ensure you spend enough time in places worth visiting, like Kyoto and Tokyo. Will we revisit Japan? Only to the cherry blossoms.
